Socks Buyers Guides

Ankle socks or crew? How to choose the right socks for your shoe

Ankle socks or crew? How to choose the right socks for your shoe


How much do you think about your socks? When you pull out a junked mismatched pair from your drawer? When you lose one in the wash? When that threadbare patch finally gives way into a hole, and you still continue to wear them for a bit anyway? (When you see a meme about no-show socks designating you as an Old Millennial and you go, hey!?)

The point we’re making is that you’re not thinking about your socks enough. Even though they might not be as exciting as your trousers or shirt or jacket, socks are a pretty important building block of your outfit. A good pair solidifies you as a man who looks after himself. A bad pair? Bad guy!

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Pedro Pascal at the Met Gala.John Shearer

What sock materials are there?

In the land of material, there are endless options. Sure, tulle and silk socks technically do exist. But the main contenders in that space are cotton, wool and synthetic fibres.

Cotton is the most popular choice, is also pretty versatile, and is known for being breathable and soft; wool is the heavier, warmer option, which also provides a nice finish so it can sometimes read a bit fancier; synthetic fibres being in the mix is a good idea for sportswear.

Louise Middleton, head of product and design at Pantherella, one of Britain’s oldest sock companies, notes of synthetic fibres: “Adding nylon or polyester improves the durability in friction zones and pressure points (such as heels and toes) and also increases the wicking properties of the socks by transporting moisture through the fabric away from the skin, thus reducing the possibility of blistering and irritation from sweat.”

Gallery Dept.

Gallery Dept.

Are there different styles of socks?

Next comes sock fit, and there are a few you should have in your drawer. Starting with the lowest, which is the ‘no-show’ or ‘sockette’ — these are the low-cut socks that are meant to be invisible when you wear your shoes. You might have noticed that these have fallen out of favour recently with the Gen Z hivemind, but don’t be discouraged if you’re into them. Lots of guys, including lots of professional athletes, wear no-shows.

Next, is an ankle sock. Ankle socks range from sitting just around the bone of your ankle, or above by about one or two inches. Ankle socks work well with trainers.

Coming up from that is the crew sock. Crew socks traditionally land mid-calf, or halfway on your shinbone. A lot of the sport or running socks you see are crew socks, and are great for making an impression without being too loud. Crew socks are a good choice for shoes like loafers, so they peek out from beneath a trouser.

Up from that is the over-the-calf sock, which hits you just about under the knee. This is generally considered the most formal option for socks, the type that was popular a few decades ago when people wore sock suspenders. But nowadays, they’re a fun choice for when you’re wearing shorts to add a bit of preppiness.

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Paul Mescal.Victor Boyko/Getty Images

What’s the best sock colour?

Socks can come in any colour you like. Neutrals like white, grey and black work for everyday, while a pop of colour might favour a bright red or blue, as they complement with many different shades, as well as each other. Don’t sleep on a subtle pattern either — stripes and spots might be twee for some, but styled right, they can add a bit more energy. If you want to experiment, try adding a thin striped sock with your jeans-and-tee combo, or a fine polka-dot with your suit.

Should my socks be neutral or colourful?

Go with your preferences when it comes to colour, but don’t automatically cross out a bright sock. An all-black outfit, with a pop of red via the sock is a great way to kick things up a notch. While going monochrome — like wearing a green sock with a green pant, or blue with your blue denim — makes your fit look thoughtful and put-together.



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